Timber And Cutting Lists

There are several point to bear in mind when considering timber selection : what is the piece you are making and how will it fit into the home? What final effect do you wish to achive? Are colour and grain pattern important factors, and so on. You wish to achieve? Are colour and rain pattern important factors, and so on You also need to see what is available from your timber supplier, so you can buy boards that allow you to cut components economically and use wood of suitable stability for the task. A cutting list helps when planning both the selection and preparation of the timber for any project, showing timber sizes andpreparation of the timber for any project, showing timber size and quantities.

The Cutting List

In the excitement of starting a new project it always pays to remember that you can save a great deal of time and money by planning what you are going to do before buying any timber. Make up a list of all the components you require for the project, stating against each item its length, width and thickness. (It may also help to have separate columns for sawn sizes as well as finished dimensions.)

This ‘cutting list’ is a great help when buying and selecting timber. It is also necessary when machining components back in the workshop, as you can see at a glance, both the rough-sawn size of an item and the finished dimensions after planing.

A good maxim is to design your components so that they can be planed easily from 25 mm (1 in) or 51 mm (2 in) rough boards. It is common practice for timber Yards to saw wood to about 28 mm (1 3/32 in), which dries down and shrinks to slightly over 25 mm (1 in). A board of this thickness will give you a finished component of roughly 19 mm (¾ in) when planed on both sides. A 51 mm (2 in) board will give a finished thickness of about 45 mm (1 ¾ in).

Consider carefully whether you need particularly stable components, such as drawer sides or the loose leaf for a drop-leaf table. In both these cases you should use quartersawn timber, which is particularly stable and less likely to cup or warp. Consider, also, whether you are buying kiln-dried or air-dried timber. If air-dried, then you must allow a period of at least one to two weeks after your initial planing of the timber for the material to settle and acclimatize to your workshop’s humidity. If you are using kiln-dried timber you can expect any temporary movement owing to acclimatization to happen much more quickly, but for shorter periods.

Cutting List For Table

Quantity Material Finished sizes (length x width x thickness)
Legs 4 Oak 750 x 45 x 45 mm (29% x 1% x 13/ in)
Side Rails 2 Oak 1,950 x 70 x 25 mm (76% x 2% x 1 in)
End Rails 2 Oak 950 x 70 x 25 mm (37% x 2% x 1 in)
Top* 3 Oak 2,000 x 336 x 35 mm (78% x 1314 x 1% in)


*The solid wood top is glued up from

three narrower boards. Allow 5 mm (3k in)

extra on component width and thickness

for sawn sizes, plus an extra 25 mm (1 in)

for length.

Alternative timber: Any tough, close-grained


Suggested finish: Oil or lacquer.

Marking and Cutting The Timber

Once you have selected your timber and brought it back to the workshop, select which board will give you which component on your cutting list. It helps to stand the boards on end so that it is easier to check both faces. The first crosscut is critical: although shorter boards are much easier to handle, once a plank is, say, 1,219 mm (4 ft) long instead of 2,438 mm (8 ft), the options for using that plank for lengthy components are obviously reduced.

Use a chalk line to mark cutting lines down the length of the rough-sawn board as shown. Do not attempt to cut to your finished sizes at this stage, but cut each component 5 mm (3/16 in) or so oversize.

Sawing along the chalk lines is best done on a band saw, although it is quite manageable with a jigsaw. Use the band saw freehand without any fence or guides, and simply guide the saw down the chalk line. A steady hand and good lighting around the band-saw table help accomplish this task. Make sure that your band saw is fitted with a sharp blade and is properly tensioned. Also check that the upper blade guide is set so that no more than 10 mm (3/8 in) of teeth are exposed above the timber. Keep your hands well back from the blade: although the band saw is a relatively gentle machine to use, it is still capable of inflicting very painful and damaging cuts.

Laser line

It is possible to use a simple laser device to project a line along the timber, although this can be more work than using a chalk line. It involves using a pencil to :he path of the beam on the board, connecting marks with a straightedge.Lasers are also used for levelling, so shelving, cupboards, dado rails and so on can be aligned horizontally or vertically on a wall before drilling. In construction industry lasers have many uses, from out buildings to lining up timber roofs. They project lines at any angle – useful for marking out stair handrails. More sophisticated laser devices include digital measurement of length, area and volume at the press of a button. Distance range on :essional models can measure up to 200 m approximately 650 ft).

How to use a Chalk L


The chalk line is a hand tool that consists of a case filled with chalk dust and, typically, 30 m (approximately 98 ft) of 1 mm (1/32 in) braided cotton or synthetic line. You hook one end of the line over the board at your first measuring point and stretch the line to your second measuring point – in this case at opposite ends of the board. By flicking the taut line against the surface, you mark a chalk line. The tool is frequently used in the construction trade and is available from builders’ merchants.

1 First brush the boards you have selected with a wire brush to remove all dirt, grit and foreign material that may blunt your tools. Pull the line out of its case, through the chalk, and down the length of the board.

2 Snap the line against the board to leave a straight, clean chalk line on the timber.

 Word Discription :

Chalk line Hand tool for marking lines using chalk dust.Cutting list A chart on which all the different components and sizes for a project are listed. This is very useful when you need to buy or select timber for a project. Laser line Electronic tool that emits a laser beam. Fitted to some power saws to give cutting line.

Tick Data Suite – Birt’s EA review

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Backtesting Forex strategies is certainly one of the most efficient ways of gauging their profitability potential. I would go as far as saying it’s THE best way unless you’re in possession of very extensive forward testing results. However, with Metatrader 4 – the most popular Forex platform nowadays – backtesting is inherently flawed. Metatrader 4 does not store the actual ticks coming from the broker’s server; the best data at its disposal is data from the M1 timeframe – it only has the open, high, low, close and number of ticks for each minute. So, if it only has these for values, you might be wondering how does it produce the ticks that happened within each minute and the answer is easy: it generates fake ticks through interpolation based on the tick count for each minute. If you didn’t understand what’s the problem yet, I’ll point it out for you: the ticks generated this way are not the real ticks, they are essentially fake ticks! Not only that, but Metatrader 4 is only able to backtest your robot using the fixed spread, whereas all good brokers nowadays use variable spread! It simply uses the current spread of your broker so, for example, if you’re testing an Asian scalper robot during the day, the results will be completely misleading.

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The Workbench

A solid workbench is the heart of any workshop and is a worthy investment whether you buy one or build it yourself. A good workbench is a large-scale cramping device that enables you to hold a piece of timber or project securely while working, whether it is gripped vertically, horizontally or tilted. A decent bench should be heavy, rock solid and should not suffer from vibration when using a mallet.

Basic Criteria

A traditional cabinet-maker’s workbench is usually made from beech, although other close-grained hardwoods, such as maple or birch, are more stable. If building your own bench you can economize by making a framework of softwood, where members are a minimum of 75 x 75 mm (3 x 3 in) PAR. The top, however, should be hardwood for strength, durability and above all weight, and should be at least 51 mm (2 in) thick. It is important that the top of your workbench is dead flat, clean and free of damage. Check it periodically with a long straightedge and, if necessary, true up the surface with a bench plane, the longer the better.

Adding a lower shelf increases rigidity and provides storage space; a drawer is also handy. It is common to enclose the space beneath the top as cupboards, with doors at the front or the end. You can also incorporate a simple slotted rack along the back for storing hand tools, such as saws and chisels. A carpenter’s bench has a recessed tool well running lengthways along the top, so tools do not interfere with timber or projects placed on the bench surface. A bench too low can be raised on wooden blocks fixed under each leg.


Most benches have two vices for cramping. The face, or front, vice is usually placed on the left side of the bench if you are right-handed. The end, or tail vice, is situated at the opposite end. Both are used for cramping work in the conventional way. The tail vice can also be used in conjunction with a pair of bench dogs. These are square, or shaped, movable pegs used for gripping a work piece flat on the surface of the bench while you work on it. They enable you to plane, use a router or carve, or can be used for cramping up boards when gluing edge to edge. Dogs are inserted in two rows of evenly-spaced mortises cut into the top of the bench. If there are no holes for dogs in the top of the bench, consider fitting a bench stop. This simple device is used to prevent timber moving when planing, and is recessed below the surface when not required.

Vices on shop-bought benches tend to be of continental pattern and from hardwood, while English pattern, bolt-on, cast-iron vices are more popular when building a bench. A quick-release vice is preferable, enabling you to open or close the jaws rapidly before tightening. Inner faces of metal vices should be lined with hardwood to prevent marking the work piece and damaging tools.

Holding Tools

A simple, yet very useful, holding device is the bench hook. This tool enables you to grip a piece of wood securely while cutting it with a back saw. A holdfast can be fitted anywhere on the bench top, the lower lip meaning it can be held in a vice or against the edge of the bench. Usually made from cast metal, it fits into a collar recessed into the surface and enables timber to be held securely for carving or other work.

Portable Benches

Auxiliary benches can take the form of portable mini-benches, folding trestles or carpenters sawhorses, all of which can be erected and dismantled as necessary. They all enable you to work outside, whether cutting up sheet materials or using power tools. Horizontal slats can be moved in and out to grip the workpiece. A folding bench that is attached to, and drops down from, a wall provides useful assembly space and may be essential in a garage workshop.

Word Discription :

Bench hook A small rectangular work board with stops on top and underneath, held against the edge of the bench. It enables small pieces of wood to be gripped while sawing.

Holdfast A metal arm inserted in a collar in the bench top for holding timber flat. It may have a threaded screw adjuster or simply be tapped in place with a hammer.

PAR (planed all round) A term referring to softwoods that are planed on all four sides. Winding sticks A pair of identical hardwood strips with parallel edges. Placed at opposite ends of a board, they are used to check for twist by sighting along one strip and aligning it with the other. Coloured edges make this easier.

The Work Environment

A comfortable, safe working environment leads to greater efficiency. If temperature and humidity are right, timber is more likely to remain stable and you will be able to concentrate on producing quality work. Machines and power tools produce a lot of waste, so make sure extraction is effective so dust is kept to a minimum.

Dust Extraction

Power tools and machines can create an extremely uncomfortable and potentially harmful level of dust. Make it a priority to install adequate extraction equipment that collects dust before it has a chance to get into the air and empty extractor bags or containers outside the workshop, so that fine dust does not become airborne again. Not only is dust harmful, it will interfere with your work when applying a finish to a project. Consider a separate finishing room if space permits.

Vacuum Extractors

Power tools that produce dust or chippings — sanders, saws, routers and planers — have an outlet for attaching the flexible hose of a compact portable vacuum extractor, which contains a replaceable paper cartridge to filter fine dust particles. Such a unit can easily be moved around the workshop, and is quick to swap between tools. Many extractors have a mains socket allowing you to plug in a power tool directly, automatically activating the unit at the same time. The unit remains running for several seconds after switch-off, to collect residual dust.

Extraction Systems

Larger extractor units, suitable for machines such as planers and table saws, use disposable plastic sacks for collecting the waste — some designed specifically for fine dust and others for coarse dust and chippings. These extractors may be either mobile units with a flexible hose or part of a built-in system with duct pipes that remove the waste from individual machines. Ducting may be either galvanized steel or plastic, and is designed to attach permanently to walls and ceilings. Lengths are simply clipped together, with various bends and adaptors for changing the pipe direction or reducing its diameter. Common diameters are 63, 100 and 150 mm (approximately 2½, 4 and 6 in).

Filtration Units

Filtration units hang from the ceiling and absorb airborne particles that escape collection by the above methods. They are typically used with a timer and can operate for several minutes after you have left the workshop, switching off automatically.

Face and Ear Protection

Power tools and machines not only produce a lot of fine sawdust and coarser chippings, they can cause chips to fly off at any moment. They are also noisy, although hearing loss is gradual and may not seem a problem initially. It is essential to protect yourself from these potentially serious health hazards, especially if exposed to them for extended periods of time.

Eye Protection

Your eyes are at considerable risk when using power tools or machines that can create flying debris. Clear, rigid plastic visors or toughened safety glasses are comfortable to wear, even over spectacles. A powered respirator combines a fine dust mask and visor, giving full facial protection. These are particularly good for woodturning and routing, where your face can be close to the work piece. A built-in fan provides a constant stream of filtered air across your face and ensures the visor does not fog up. A rechargeable battery enables you to wear the device for several hours at a time.

Ear Protection

Hearing loss due to prolonged exposure to machinery noise used to be common in the woodworking industry. Tighter health-and-safety regulations mean this is now less of a problem, but there is still a danger in the home workshop. Avoid this by always wearing ear protection, either in the form of ear defenders or disposable foam earplugs, when using any power tool or machine. Keep a pair of ear defenders next to a machine so there is no excuse not to wear them.

Face Masks

It is always wise to wear a face mask, even if using a dust extractor. The dust created when machining some sheet materials and certain hardwoods can cause severe throat irritation and discomfort. In Europe, disposable masks are identified by a dust-rating system, with a `P2′ protection level suitable for woodworking (MDF in particular). If the code is not displayed on a mask it probably does not reach the required standard, so avoid using it. Better-quality respirator masks feature disposable filters, which last longer than disposable versions and give better protection. For spray finishes, a dual-cartridge respirator mask will give protection against lacquers, paints and toxic dust.

Foot Protection

You can cause damage by dropping a length of timber on unprotected toes. Wear boots with steel toe caps, or at least wear a sturdy pair of leather shoes, even if you change into them at the workshop door on hotter days.



Plastic (PVC) ducting is cheaper than its steel equivalent but tends to accumulate static electricity, with the potential for sawdust becoming ignited by sparks. It is essential that such systems are correctly earthed.

Word Discription :

COSHH Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations

Ducting Pipework through which sawdust or chippings pass on their way to an extractor unit.

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The Sharpening Process

Sharpness is essential in controlling a cutting edge effectively, whether it is a plane, a chisel or a saw. The sharper the tool, the less force required to push the edge through the timber. The more power needed to push a chisel through the wood, or a plane across its surface, the less control you have. A razor-sharp edge will slice through with the minimum of effort.


Most plane and chisel blades are ground at an angle of 25 degrees. New tools will be ground already, but after repeated honing you will need to regrind the bevels. The easiest method is to use an electric wet-stone grinder, which cools the blade edge with water. This prevents the steel overheating during the grinding process, which could lead to the temper of the steel being lost and the hardness of the cutting edge reduced. For this reason, high-speed bench grinders are not recommended for woodworking tools, apart from those used for woodturning. A wet-stone, or water-cooled, grinder may have either a vertical or horizontal stone, which rotates slowly and you usually clamp the blade of the tool in a jig that you move across the revolving surface.

Sharpening Saws

It is possible to sharpen handsaws in the workshop, although this takes considerable skill. Saw doctors (located in specialist tool stores) have the equipment and expertise to sharpen bench saws much more accurately than even a skilled woodworker can. If you do want to try sharpening a saw, obtain a cheap, secondhand tool to practise on first. You can sharpen the very small saws, however. Dovetail saws are best sharpened using a 102 mm (4 in) precision saw file at right angles to the blade. The technique is to settle the file into the gullet of each tooth, then to give one stroke per tooth. Sharpen saws like this little and often, rather than waiting for them to become dull and useless.

Sharpening Stones

Whatever type of stone you use for sharpening, it will need a lubricant. This suspends the steel particles as they are ground from the blade and prevents them clogging the grinding surface as you push the tool across it.

Oilstones may be natural or synthetic and are used with a thin oil. Synthetic stones are either made from aluminium oxide or silicon carbide particles. They are hard-wearing but limited in the grades offered. More expensive, natural, Arkansas stones are generally available in three grades (fine, medium, coarse). Combination oilstones have a different grit on each side, either fine/medium or medium/coarse. Messy to use, the blade should be wiped carefully after honing,  so the timber is not contaminated by oil.

Japanese waterstones are softer and relatively fragile. Made from both natural and synthetic materials, they wear rapidly so need to be flattened regularly on abrasive paper. They must be soaked in water for several minutes before use, and can also be stored under water. They cut quickly and come in a wide range of grades. Finer stones are used to polish blades and are capable of producing a superb edge. Grades start at around 800 grit (coarse) and go up to 8,000 grit (very fine). A 1,000-grit medium grade is a good choice if buying one stone only. Before honing, a waterstone should be prepared with a Nagura stone, a piece of chalk-like mineral. Adding water, this is rubbed across the surface of the waterstone to produce a slurry. This acts as a fine abrasive paste to give a polished edge to the tool.

Diamond stones are an expensive investment, but hard-wearing and very efficient. The particles are bonded to a plastic base and water is used as a lubricant, although special cutting fluids are more effective. Thin diamond slipstones are ideal for touching up TCT router bits and circular-saw teeth. Slipstones are smaller, shaped, stones for honing gouges and carving chisels. They come in several shapes, including cone and tapered patterns.

Edge tools can also be sharpened on abrasive sheets stuck down to a flat surface such as plate glass or metal. The most suitable abrasive is silicon carbide paper, with water used as a lubricant. Grades of 220 grit and finer are most appropriate.


 • A blunt edge is also more dangerous: a chisel is more likely to slip when blunt than when sharp. Never allow your tools to become blunt, but hone a plane or chisel blade as soon as you start to feel slight resistance when cutting.

How to hone a chisel or plane iron

Once a chisel is ground it must be honed before use. Although the 25-degree bevel may be sufficient for cutting softwoods, the edge formed is too weak for hard­woods. A steeper angle of 30 to 35 degrees is required, known as a secondary bevel.

1 Apply a lubricant to the stone. Holding the chisel or plane blade in your right hand (or vice versa if left-handed), place the bevel down flat on the stone. With two fingers of your left (right) hand, press down on the back of the blade.

2 Lift the blade slightly and push it forwards along the stone, making sure you keep the angle constant.Make several circuits around the stone with a figure-of-eight pattern. Aim to hone the front 1 mm (1/32 in) of the cutting edge. After a few strokes you will find a wire burr has formed on the rear edge of the chisel.

3 Lay the back of the blade completely flat on the stone and press down on it with two fingers. Push the tool along the stone a couple of times, then turn it over and make a couple of strokes with the bevel face down again. Repeat, with the back of the blade flat, to remove the burr.

Grinding and Honing Angles

Honing Guides

A honing guide clamps the blade at the correct angle to the stone, enabling you to move the tool backwards and forwards to obtain a precise bevel edge. Most honing guides can be used for plane blades as well as chisels, and can be adjusted to a variety of angles. With enough practice you will be able to master the sharpening technique without needing a guide.

Word Discription :

Burnisher A straight, hardened steel blade set into a handle for raising the burr on a scraper. It may be oval or circular in section.

Gullet The valley between two teeth points. Honing After grinding, edge tools are honed (sharpened) on an abrasive stone to produce a cutting edge.

TCT (tungsten-carbide tipped) Circular saw-blade teeth and router bits are usually tipped, remaining sharp longer than high-speed steel (HSS) versions. Better for sheet materials. Temper The process of hardening the cutting edge of a tool by heating and cooling the steel.


Grinding and honing angles

The Pigeon Racing Blueprint

Click Image To Visit SiteSo If you ever wanted to be a winning pigeon racer, breed champion birds and finally stop wasting all of your time and money then you need to read this entire page right now.

It’s difficult to race pigeons… more often than not, the same few people rank in races, while other pigeons consistently fail.

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From breeding to training, pigeon racing is a time and money intensive process which doesn’t always pay off.

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You’re willing to go the extra mile, and with the right information and know-how, you’ll be able to turn a losing pigeon into a winning pigeon – every time.

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The Perfect Golf Swing by Leslie King

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How often have you thought, "if I only had the clear easy to follow instructions, if only I could study in the peace and quite of my own home, I could learn to hit the golf ball really well". Have you ever really felt bad about the amount of time and money you invest in golf compared to your family? Have you ever totalled up the amount of money you would have to spend on golf lessons to get anywhere near the level of playing ability that you really desire in your heart?

Since you are here right now, and reading this information, it shows that you are committed to improving your golf swing and your golfing ability. And that you are interested in saving on golf lessons at the same time.

Do you want to play really good strokes you could save each round if you just kept the ball STRAIGHT? Now you can have the straight answer for practically every question you could have about golf…..

Let me present: "Leslie King Golf" (see www.knightsbridgegolfschool.com/king.html ), a Step-by-Step method for learning a classic golf swing ON YOUR OWN. Have you ever noticed that a lot of golf books only talk about muscle power, power turns, hard hitting, etc.? Some aren’t any more than Bodybuilding books in disguise! "The Master Key to Good Golf" by Leslie King, which is the "Step-by-Step Method" described in this book, is a System that is NOT based on muscle power, but rather is a classical SWING model.

The Leslie King Method is different from muscle-bound weight-lifter, super athlete methods. It is marked by it’s simplicity and easy-to-learn techniques and repeatability And YOU profit already from the first chapter without professional help. The whole book is based on the Leslie King Model, which he taught for more than 30 years at his school, the "Knightsbridge Golf School", in the West-End of London. See www.knightsbridgegolfschool.com/king.html

The keywords in the King-Method are Stability, Simplicity and Repeatability. All three together mean Consistency. The concept of the swing model is the same for all golfers. This means your swing is… Read more…

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The Complete Guide to Legally Getting Free Electricity from Utility Companies

Click Image To Visit SiteWe’ve been getting an average of $104.78 worth of free electricity delivered to our home every month… right over our existing electric company’s power lines… for the past 2 years. We’ve shown thousands of people how to do this in that time, and we can show YOU how to begin doing the same thing within 30 days, with no investment, no matter where you live in the United States!

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…That’s right, a 100% refund, and because there is NO shipping and handling for downloaded information, it’s truly a 100% no-risk purchase on your part. That guarantee is backed by Clickbank, the largest e-tailer of ebooks in the world!

Hi Dan – I received your report and read it through, and the ideas are great! I think the ideas you present are very insightful, and I have kept your report because I’m sure it will be helpful to us. Thanks! — Joanna Wright, Greenville, South Carolina

There’s no waiting for the mail — After you click on the order link below you’ll be able to select your payment method (Credit Card, PayPal or E-check), review your order prior to completing the purchase, and then download your copy of "How To Get FREE Electricity From Your Power Company – Legally !!!", all in less than 5 minutes!

Remember, when you act today… Read more…

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